The perfumer called the necessary condition for the replacement of foreign products in Russia, by Tatyana Kosolapova for VZGLYAD. 28.04.2022.
For complete import substitution in the Russian perfume market, it is necessary to open at least one plant in the country to create the basis of fragrances, Zhanna Gladkova, a perfumer who created individual compositions for Russian President Vladimir Putin and Chechen leader Ramzan Kadyrov, told the VZGLYAD newspaper.
The French-American cosmetic concern Coty, which includes about 80 perfume brands, including Alexander McQueen, Calvin Klein, Gucci, Hugo Boss, Tiffany, the Max Factor mass market brand and others, has announced that it is curtailing its activities in Russia. This decision was made after careful deliberation, including an analysis of relevant US, UK and other regulations.
“We definitely need to build a couple of factories for the production of perfume composition. In Soviet times, we had them, but in the 90s everything was closed. Now we do not have the opportunity to prepare perfume compositions ourselves, so everything has to be purchased abroad,” says Gladkova.
She emphasizes that there are a sufficient number of perfumers in Russia, there are no problems with the manufacture of perfume liquid. However, the perfume compositions themselves (what is the basis of the fragrance) have to be ordered. Therefore, it is possible to establish fully domestic production in the country, but for this you need to open at least one plant.
“As for the raw materials that are available in Europe, today a lot has been taken to Southeast Asia, where it is also possible to buy it. But, of course, we need factories. With them, we would generally manage without Western components calmly, ”says the specialist.
The creation of a perfume composition is creativity, the expert continues, and there are a considerable number of worthy masters in Russia. Moreover, it is difficult to release a fragrance, but it is even more difficult to sell it. In Europe, according to the perfumer, there is not as much demand for the product as in Russia, so now companies are losing a very large market share.
“When I am abroad and I smell a fragrance from some woman, it is almost 100% our woman. European women practically do not choke. The Russian perfume market is huge compared to the Western one. Therefore, companies that leave because of political issues lose a lot. Of course, they will return later, but we can also improve our production,” Gladkova said.
In order to create a perfume factory, according to the speaker, no fabulous sums are needed. The most expensive thing in a modern factory is equipment in the form of robots, which can be purchased in China. That is, the creation of fragrant compositions comes from a computer: a recipe is laid there and a container “runs” on the conveyor, into which fragrant substances are poured. Thanks to such automation, the human factor is excluded, which is important in perfumery, because the slightest deviation leads to a change in the sound of the fragrance.
In addition, she says that aromas are used not only to create perfumes, but also to flavor household chemicals, candles and other things necessary in everyday life.
Earlier, the press service of Wildberries said that in the first quarter of 2022, the turnover of the marketplace amounted to 289.2 billion rubles, which is 95% more than the same period in 2021. Sales of cosmetics and perfumes grew by 100% to RUB 28.3 billion.
https://vz.ru/news/2022/4/28/1156108.html